Market Visit: Saint Antoine Market in Lyon, France
The location of the Saint-Antoine Market is one of the most scenic spots of any outdoor market in the world: It sits beside the bank of the Soane River on the Presqu’île (peninsula) side of Lyon, only a short walk from Place Bellecour (the public square). The views of passing boats, pastel buildings, and the backdrop of Fourvière Hill with its iconic Basilica and La Tour Métallique (Lyon’s own replica Eiffel Tower) are spectacular.
But this market isn’t just a pretty face; it also has enticing foods. The winding path through the two rows of stalls extends along the river for blocks and blocks—so it offers a wonderful promenade for a walk especially in the early morning when the air is crisp and there is less pedestrian traffic (and less danger of tripping over someone’s shopping cart). The market is filled with locals who come with their carts in tow to pick up fresh foods and chat with their favorite producers and vendors. (I’ve read that Chef Daniel Boulud began dreaming about becoming a chef when, as a kid growing up in Lyon, he shopped at this market with his father.)
Wherever you walk, aromas of fresh flowers, succulent fruits and roasting chickens waft through the air. The market also has an incredible array of pork products, including saucisson brioche, sausage covered in a rich, buttery pastry dough.
Varieties of cheeses are just as plentiful and delicious—making for a perfect pairing with the meats and a bottle of local wine.
Because fruits and vegetables are priced and sold by the plateau (metal or plastic plates), when we wanted to purchase a single banana, we had a hard time until we explained we couldn’t possibly eat a plateful during our stay.
Come with an empty stomach because there are ample opportunities to sample some of the mouth-watering foods as well as to feast on an eclectic mix of prepared dishes.
The array of rotisserie chickens is almost irresistible.
On a nice day, you can even sit down at one of picnic tables along the river (behind the stalls) and eat freshly shucked oysters.
For the second year in a row (we had previously visited the market on a river cruise last year) we bumped into jovial Señor Carlos who migrated to Lyon from Chile to sell his popular empanadas from a truck. We also met a young vendor from Brooklyn, New York who was making a business selling donuts in a shop in Lyon and at the Saint Antoine Market.
Of course, no market visit is complete without bread and dessert. Both the fresh fruits and fruit tarts were especially tempting. But I have to admit I made the same mistake twice in a row: I purchased madeleines from the same vendor and each time they were disappointing. I guess I need more experience shopping Saint Antoine market…(SIGH)
IF YOU GO
Saint Antoine Market (Quai Saint Antoine) is open every day of the week, except Monday
Hours: 6AM to 12:30PM Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.
Hours: 6AM to 1:30PM Friday, Saturday and Sunday
Tips:
- As with most busy markets, try to get to Market Saint Antoine early in the morning when the crowds are fewer.
- Watch where you walk. It’s easy to trip over a shopping cart trailing behind the person in front of you.
- On Sundays, you can visit the outdoor art market just across the bridge on Quai de Bondy.
- For a perfect afternoon excursion, find out about Lyon City boat tours that launch from just behind the market.
Also on MoreTimeToTravel.com
- Public markets offer a taste of a city and its culture
- Tips for visiting public markets
- Market visit – Coquimbo Fish Market in Chile
- Market visit – Mercado 23 in Cancun, Mexico
- Great markets travel writers love to visit
- Market visit – President Wilson Market in Paris
- Market visit – Carnot Market in Lyon, France
- Guide for First-Time VIsitors: What To Do in Lyon
Great photos! Who took them???
Thanks for asking! My photographer extraordinaire, Jerry!:-)
Wow! Love your photos, as always, but also your mouth-watering descriptions. Alan would love, love this.
Before I even saw the comments I was thinking wow, these are the best food photos I’ve ever seen. I didn’t see your byline. Is it there?
My byline is at the top of the blog post, Emilie, but Jerry is usually the photographer because I’m busy taking notes:-)
My first ever real French food experience was in Lyon in 1970. I was 16 and with my family, we were setting off on a 7 week camping trip around Europe after my father completed a year long stint as an exchange teacher in England. We had stopped in Lyon to borrow a tent from a young French friend who had been student teaching at the same school in England. His parents were not wealthy. His father worked for the railroad and they lived in a 5 floor walk up apartment in a an un-chic part of Lyon, BUT his mother made us a dinner that was unlike any other I had ever tasted—-starting with escargot!
Isn’t it amazing how wonderful food leaves an imprint after that many years!
I hope you are plotting a return!
This market looks fantastic. What a great location. Photos are great – I’m now hungry for oysters and paella.
I got hungry just posting the pictures!
The French and their food! Everything looks absolutely scrumptious. We’re hoping to spend time in France this summer, and so now you’ve got me thinking seriously about Lyon! 🙂
Make sure you plan your trip with enough days. You won’t want to leave!
Oh boy, this is my type of market especially with samples available for tasting. Everything is presented with panache – I would love to visit and take pictures here!
And it’s just one of many wonderful markets in the city!
I feel like I gained 5 pounds just looking at your fabulous photos of food! What a marvelous place to visit and enjoy the sights, aromas and flavors!
Thankfully, the weight gain in Lyon can be avoided because it is such a great walking city!
Do you hear my tummy growling? With each photo it has gotten LOUDER! The sausage and the cheese are seducing me…Nancie Nancie…we want you…LOL:)
Not after dinner:-)
It’s a good thing for me that it is almost time for dinner. Those stunning photos have made me start salivating. Two of my favorites are the saucisson brioche sausage covered in pastry and the pistachio salame. Wish those were going to be on my plate tonight!
Well that got the stomach grumbling! Beautiful photos and there is nothing we like more than a European Market – it is a feast for the eyes, the soul and the stomach! Merry Christmas – a bit late.
Not too late (yet) to wish you a Happy New Year, Jackie!
Wow, that fresh paella looks absolutely delicious! Quite unexpected for an outdoor market in most other parts of the world. It sounds as though you really dived into the culture of Lyon and I’ll totally follow in your footsteps on my next visit. Happy New Year!
I know you’ll have a wonderful time, Michele! Wish I were going back, too!
Well, the web does not (yet) transmit smell and taste but your photos are so vivid, I can smell and taste the market items.
Visit markets is such a treat for the senses! I agree!
I love Lyon and its food, but I have never been to the market. I must rectify that the next time I am in France. It looks like a great time!
This is only one of MANY wonderful markets around Lyon~
It’s a few years since I’ve been in France so I was interested to see empanadas and paella for sale here. There was never any multiculturalism in any French market I’ve been to in the past!
Like the rest of Europe, there have been many waves of immigration to the large cities (and small ones) in France. However, we happened to strike up a conversation with Senor Carlos and he told us that he had emigrated to Lyon from Chile more than a decade ago.