Brisighella: Forget the Spa and Start Pumping…Olive Oil?
Situated about 30 miles from Ravenna (the city of mosaics) on the road to Florence (SS 302), Brisighella lies in the Lamone Valley of the Emilia Romagna region. The area is lush with kiwi and peach orchards, vineyards, and olive groves.
For nearly 50 years, people were drawn to the town’s famous spa at Terme di Brisighella, which is now permanently closed. These days, travelers visiting the small town of Brisighella (population 8000) are more likely to go to sample the town’s precious extra virgin olive oils rather than soak in its thermal waters.
Olive oil production has boomed since 16 growers first banded together in 1962. The Terra di Brisighella cooperative now includes 800 local oil and wine producers. Not only can visitors purchase bottled products from the coop to carry home, but locals can fill up their own recycled 5-gallon jugs with oil or wine delivered via wall pumps that resemble gasoline pumps at a service station.
The growers hand-pick olives and deliver them to the mill where they are cold-pressed within 24 hours to ensure that the oils remain fresh and flavorful.
Like fine wines, the DOP (protected designation of origin) designation certifies their quality. Known for low acidity and fruity taste, the oils come in four varieties that appeal to different palates: Pieve Tho, Brisighella DOP, Cru Brisighello, and Selezione Nobil Drupa.
In addition to olive oil, Brisighella is known for its architecture, colorful houses, Moretto artichokes grown in the surrounding fields, and wines. The cobbled narrow streets of the medieval center are a short drive from the cooperative’s roadside market and showcase an important monument on each of the three hills.
The oldest of them, the majestic and well-preserved Manfrediana medieval fortress called La Rocca, was built in 1310. You can visit it independently or take a tour with a guide.
The Sanctuary of the Madonna is an 18th-century church on a hill called Monticino.
The restored clock tower, Torre dell’Orologio, rests on a medieval foundation and houses an exhibition of clocks and instruments. Originally built by Maghinardo Pagani as part of the town’s defensive structure, it was rebuilt in 1850.
Steps away is another modern makeover: The arched Donkey Road (Via degli Asini), a unique above-ground passageway built in the 1400s to protect donkeys carrying gypsum from the quarries, which has been converted into fashionable apartments.
Brisghella is one of the I Borghi più Belli d’Italia, the most beautiful village in Italy, selected in a competition held by ANCI, an association dedicated to preserving the country’s small villages. It is best seen on a walking tour with an expert guide.
Active travelers will enjoy visiting the regional park, Vena del Gesso, where there are two caves and an archaeological site.
All photo credits: Jerome Levine
IF YOU GO
Each year Brisighella has a medieval festival in June and July, and pork processing and olive festivals in November.
[This article is an update of an article first published in the Chicago Tribune.]
Prior posts about Emilia Romagna on More Time To Travel
- A road trip on the Via Emilia
- Casa Artusi: A living museum of Italian home cooking
- Sant’Agata Feltria: On the trail of the white truffle festival
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Great photos!
The pumps are super cool! I was even in olive groves of Brisighella and the surrounding area, but didn’t know about them. I also didn’t spend time in the town of Brisighella — looks lovely.
There are so many reasons to return to Emilia Romagna over and over, Cathy:-) I love following your travels there.
Amazing – love the pumps. What a fabulous idea. This looks like a wonderful place to visit. Love the photos, too!
So much history and would love to “fill er up” at the olive oil pumps. I never get enough of that great oil.
Interesting…